Shan tofu noodles
To hpu nway means 'warm tofu', and it is the Shan tofu mixture caught before it sets: chickpea flour batter cooked into a thick, golden, pourable porridge that market cooks in Taunggyi and Hsipaw ladle over rice noodles on chilly hill mornings. Where Shan tofu salad uses cool, firm cubes, here everything arrives hot and spoonable, a velvety blanket that you stir into the noodles with chilli oil, garlic oil, soy, a dash of vinegar and crunchy pickled mustard greens. It tastes nutty, savoury and gently sour, with heat you add to taste. The common mistake is tipping chickpea flour straight into hot water, which gives lumps that never whisk out; it must be soaked in cold water first. Chef's tip: for a gluten-free bowl, swap the light soy sauce for tamari.
Burmese
Indian
