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Recipes with dried black soybeans

3 recipes that use dried black soybeans, with photos, step-by-step instructions and cook times. The quickest, Ogokbap, takes 70 minutes. It is most often cooked with ginger, beaten rice and boneless chicken thigh.

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Ogokbap

Ogokbap is cooked across Korea for Jeongwol Daeboreum, the first full moon of the lunar year, when families share five-grain rice with nine kinds of dried namul and crack nuts to wish for good health. Sticky rice, millet, sorghum, black soybeans and adzuki beans cook together into a chewy, purple-tinged rice with a nutty, gently sweet flavour. It is good any time of year beside soup and banchan. The usual mistake is putting the adzuki beans in raw with the rice: they stay hard while the rice turns soft, so parboil them first. Chef's tip: keep a little of the adzuki cooking water for the rice, as it gives ogokbap its lovely rosy colour.

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Douchi

Yangjiang in western Guangdong and Liuyang in Hunan are the two great douchi towns, and both traditionally make their fermented black beans in the dry season, when beans can be moulded indoors and dried in the sun without spoiling. Cooked black soybeans are covered until a yellow-green koji mould grows over them, then washed, salted, packed and fermented for weeks before drying. The result is wrinkled, soft-chewy beans with an intense salty, savoury, almost chocolate-dark flavour. A spoonful steamed with spare ribs or a whole fish, stir-fried with bitter melon or pounded into Hunan's chilli dishes seasons the whole plate. At home, buying koji spores (Aspergillus oryzae) is far more reliable than waiting for wild moulds. Common mistake: letting the beans sit wet or warm in a sealed container during the moulding stage; they must breathe at 28–32 °C. Good koji smells sweet and chestnut-like; discard any batch with black, pink or bright coloured mould, slime or a rotten smell. Keep the salt as given. It is ready when the beans are dark, wrinkled and dry outside but supple within. Store dried douchi in the fridge for 1 year. Chef's tip: rinse and lightly crush the beans before cooking.

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Samay baji

No Newari feast, puja or family gathering in Kathmandu, Patan or Bhaktapur is complete without samay baji, a ritual platter in which each item stands for something: a mound of crisp beaten rice (baji) surrounded by spiced grilled meat, a fried egg, crunchy roasted black soybeans, slivers of raw ginger, a sharp potato achar and greens. It is offered first to the gods at festivals such as Indra Jatra and then shared with the family, and it is the default snack-meal at any Newa celebration. The meat is traditionally buffalo; here chicken thighs make it easier, and for a vegetarian platter leave out the meat and egg and add a lentil bara. The pitfall to avoid is eating the soybeans underdone: raw soybeans are hard to digest and must be roasted until they crackle. Chef's tip: prepare the achar and soybeans first, since both can wait at room temperature while you grill the meat.

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Goes well with dried black soybeans