Jiaxing zongzi (pork belly rice dumplings)
Jiaxing in Zhejiang, an hour south-west of Shanghai, is China's zongzi capital: at the Dragon Boat Festival, and all year round at the station kiosks, people buy long pillow-shaped parcels of soy-brown sticky rice wrapped round a chunk of pork belly that melts into the grains during hours of boiling. The rice and pork marinate separately, overnight in the fridge. The mistake is lean pork: it turns dry and stringy, while belly bastes the rice from inside. The pork is fully cooked after the long boil, well over 71 °C. A little Shaoxing rice wine goes in the pork marinade; it cooks away, and you can leave it out. Chef's tip: tie them firmly; loose zongzi let water in and the rice turns mushy.



