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Recipes with date-palm jaggery

5 recipes that use date-palm jaggery, with photos, step-by-step instructions and cook times. The quickest, Teler pitha, takes 40 minutes. It is most often cooked with coconut, fine rice flour and cardamom.

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Bibikhana pitha

The name means something like a lady's dish, and bibikhana pitha has long been the grand, special-occasion pitha of well-off households in Dhaka, Comilla and Noakhali, made in winter when a son-in-law or important guest is expected. It is closer to a cake than most pithas: rice flour, eggs, milk, grated coconut and date-palm jaggery are beaten together and baked slowly, traditionally in a heavy pan over charcoal with more coals heaped on the lid, until it sets into a dense, moist, caramel-brown cake. It is cut into wedges and served with tea in the afternoon. Baking too hot is the typical slip, so the jaggery burns before the middle sets; a moderate oven and patience give an even colour. Chef's tip: let it cool completely before cutting, as it firms up and slices cleanly only once cold.

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Teler pitha

Teler pitha, literally oil cake, is the easiest of the winter pithas and the one children wait for at the start of the date-palm season, when the first pots of fresh khejur rosh are boiled down into gur in the villages of Jessore and Faridpur. A batter of rice flour and melted jaggery is poured into hot oil a ladle at a time, and each cake puffs into a round with a little raised hump in the middle, crisp and brown outside, soft and chewy inside, tasting of caramel and fennel. They are eaten warm in the afternoon or packed for a journey. Oil that is too hot gives dark cakes with raw centres, which is where most people go wrong; keep it at a steady medium heat. Chef's tip: rest the batter for at least an hour, ideally two, so the rice flour swells and the cakes rise properly.

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Pakan pitha

Pakan pitha belongs to the long nights of the Bengali month of Poush, when village kitchens in Rajshahi, Bogura and the Mymensingh plains make batch after batch for guests and for relatives coming home for the harvest. Smaller and quicker than nakshi pitha, each cake is cut into a flower and stamped with a carved wooden pitha mould or the tines of a fork, fried until crunchy, then dipped in syrup made with khejur gur, the date-palm jaggery that gives it a smoky, caramel colour and taste. The outside softens slightly in the syrup while the centre stays crisp, and they are eaten warm with tea or kept in a tin for visitors. Frying straight from the board with the dough warm and sticky makes the shapes collapse, so let the cut flowers dry for 10 minutes first. Chef's tip: a little sugar in the dough helps the pitha colour evenly.

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Dudh puli

Poush Sankranti, the mid-January festival that marks the height of winter, is the day for dudh puli in Bangladeshi and Bengali homes, when grandmothers sit with daughters and granddaughters shaping dozens of little half-moon dumplings from cooked rice dough. Each one hides a sticky filling of fresh coconut and khejur gur, the smoky date-palm jaggery of the season, and the dumplings are simmered in milk until it thickens around them into a pale, fragrant sauce. The puli are soft and slightly chewy, the milk sweet and caramel-scented, and the bowl is eaten warm or cold the next morning. Milk often splits when cold jaggery hits it at a hard boil, so take the pan off the heat before stirring the jaggery in. Chef's tip: knead the hot rice dough with the heel of your hand until completely smooth, or the dumplings crack in the milk.

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Patishapta

Patishapta is the star of Poush Sankranti in mid-January, when Bengali homes make pithe-puli, sweets of new rice, coconut and the season's nolen gur (date-palm jaggery). A loose batter of rice flour, semolina, plain flour and milk is swirled thin on a hot pan and rolled round a sticky filling of coconut cooked with jaggery and cardamom. The crêpe should be soft and pale, never crisp. Chef's tip: keep the heat low and grease the pan only lightly with a cut potato dipped in ghee, which spreads a film rather than a pool.

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Goes well with date-palm jaggery