Kerala duck roast
Christmas morning in Kuttanad and Kottayam often begins after midnight Mass with palappam and a dark, glossy tharavu roast. Ducks are raised along the Kerala backwaters, and Syrian Christian families save this dish for feast days. Duck is a richer, firmer bird than chicken: here it is cut into curry pieces, marinated with pepper, turmeric and vinegar, pressure-cooked until tender, then roasted in coconut oil with masses of onion, ginger, garlic and green chilli, coriander and plenty of black pepper, before thick coconut milk softens the heat. Cook the duck right through until tender, and for safety until 74 °C in the thickest pieces. The finished roast should be thick and clinging rather than soupy. Serve with appam, idiyappam or crusty bread, with a vegetable stew on the side. Common mistake: leaving all the duck fat in; skim the rich fat off the cooking liquid or the roast turns greasy. Chef's tip: keep the skimmed duck fat in the fridge and use a spoonful to fry potatoes.



