Matumbo
Nairobi's office workers and matatu crews know which roadside hoteli does the best matumbo, and they queue for it at lunchtime with a mound of ugali on the side. The tripe is boiled until it is soft but still has a gentle bounce, then cut into strips and fried hard with onion, tomato and green chilli so the edges catch and the sauce turns thick and peppery. Buy cleaned (dressed) beef tripe from a butcher: the white, honeycomb kind has already been scalded and scraped, which you should not attempt at home. Even cleaned tripe needs a thorough wash and a long simmer, and cutting it before it is tender is the usual mistake, because it then stays rubbery however long you fry it. Chef's tip: add a squeeze of lemon and a chopped onion to the boiling water; they freshen the smell in the kitchen and leave the tripe tasting clean.



