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Yibin ya cai
宜宾芽菜: mustard stems salted, dried and cured dark with brown sugar and spices; the secret of dan dan noodles
Yibin, where the Min river meets the Yangtze in southern Sichuan, has cured ya cai since the Qing dynasty, and its dark, sweet-salty shreds are what give dan dan mian, gan bian si ji dou (dry-fried green beans) and the steamed pork dish shao bai their deep savoury note. The stems of a leafy mustard are shredded, wind-dried, salted twice, then mixed with a syrup of brown sugar and spices and cured in sealed jars until almost black. The texture is chewy-tender, the taste malty, sweet, salty and warmly spiced with star anise and Sichuan pepper. Common mistake: adding the syrup while it is hot or while the shreds are still wet, which dilutes the cure and invites spoilage; both must be cold and the shreds well dried. It is ready when the shreds are uniformly dark brown and smell of molasses and anise, after 4–6 weeks in the fridge. This cure is high in salt and sugar, so it keeps 6 months refrigerated with a dry spoon; discard if mould, slime or a sour, rotten smell appears. Chef's tip: mustard greens with thick stalks (gai choy) are the best stand-in abroad; save the leaves for soup.
- Total time
- 80 min
- Difficulty
- hard
- Serves
- 24
Ingredients
For the stems
- 3 ⅓ lb mustard green stalksthick-stemmed gai choy or er pi cai; leaves removed
- 2 ⅛ oz coarse salt
- 1 ⅜ oz coarse salt
For the sugar cure
- 7 oz dark brown sugar
- ½ cup water
- 1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns
- 2 in cassia bark
- 1 tsp fennel seeds
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Method
0/8 doneStep 1: Cut the 3 ⅓ lb mustard green stalks into 5 mm strips about 5 cm long. Spread on racks in a dry, breezy place (or a dehydrator at 122°F for 6 hours) for 1–2 days, until limp and reduced by about half.
25 minStep 2: Toss with 2 ⅛ oz coarse salt in a glass or steel bowl and massage for 5 minutes until the strips darken and release liquid. Weigh down and leave in a cool place for 24 hours.
5 minStep 3: Squeeze hard in a cloth until no more liquid drips, then dry the strips again on racks for a day (or in the dehydrator for 4 hours) until they feel leathery.
10 minStep 4: Toss with 1 ⅜ oz coarse salt and leave for 12 hours, then squeeze dry once more. They should feel firm and not wet.
10 minStep 5: Put 7 oz dark brown sugar, ½ cup water, 3 star anise, 1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns, 2 in cassia bark, 1 tsp fennel seeds and 2 bay leaves in a small pan and simmer over a low heat for 15–20 minutes, until it is a thick dark syrup that coats a spoon. Let it cool completely.
20 minStep 6: Wash a 1 litre jar in hot soapy water, rinse and dry in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes; cool.
10 minStep 7: Pour the cold syrup with its spices over the dry strips and mix thoroughly with a clean spoon until every strand is coated.
Step 8: Pack tightly into the jar, pressing down to expel air, close and cure in the fridge for 4–6 weeks, turning the jar upside down every few days. It is ready when the strands are dark brown all through and smell of molasses and anise. Keep refrigerated up to 6 months; discard if mould, slime or a rotten smell appears. Chop finely before using.
Nutrition per serving
- Calories
- 45 kcal
- Protein
- 1 g
- Carbs
- 10 g
- Fat
- 0 g
- Fibre
- 1 g
Nutrition values are estimates.
KrazyBadal
Good to know
- How long does yibin ya cai take?
- About 80 minutes in total: 60 minutes to prepare and 20 minutes to cook.
- How many people does it serve?
- 24 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
- Is it vegan?
- Yes. It has no meat, fish, dairy or eggs.
- Is it gluten free?
- Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
- Can I make it ahead?
- Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
- What can I use instead of dark brown sugar?
- White sugar + 1 tbsp molasses or treacle per 200g.
- What can I use instead of star anise?
- ½ tsp aniseeds or fennel seeds per star.
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