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Xue cai
雪菜: potherb mustard rubbed with salt and pressed into 'snow vegetable', sour-salty and crisp
In Ningbo and the river towns of Zhejiang, xue li hong, a feathery potherb mustard, is harvested in early spring and again in late autumn, and much of it is rubbed with salt and pressed into jars. A couple of weeks later it is xue cai, olive green, crisp, salty and gently sour, with a clean mustard bitterness. Shanghainese and Ningbo cooks chop it into noodle soup with yellow croaker or shredded pork, stir-fry it with sliced rice cakes for Lunar New Year, or simmer it with edamame and tofu skin in summer. Abroad, use any young leafy mustard green or the leaves of gai choy. Common mistake: packing the leaves loosely; air pockets let mould grow, so press hard until brine rises over the top. Normal signs are a little cloudiness, small bubbles and a pleasant pickle smell; a flat white film can be skimmed off. Discard if you see fuzzy coloured mould, pink or black patches, or it smells rotten. It is ready after 2–3 weeks, when the leaves have turned from bright to olive green and taste sour. Then keep it in the fridge for 2 months. Chef's tip: squeeze and chop finely before cooking; a quick rinse tames the salt.
- Total time
- 40 min
- Difficulty
- easy
- Serves
- 16
Ingredients
For the xue cai
- 2 ¼ lb potherb mustard greens (xue li hong)or young leafy mustard greens
- 2 ⅛ oz coarse salt6% of the wilted weight
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Method
0/6 doneStep 1: Wash the 2 ¼ lb potherb mustard greens (xue li hong) well and spread on racks or hang over a line for a day in the shade, until wilted and soft enough to bend without snapping. They will lose a fifth of their weight.
15 minStep 2: Wash a 1.5 litre jar in hot soapy water, rinse and dry it in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes; cool.
10 minStep 3: Put the greens in a large bowl, sprinkle with 2 ⅛ oz coarse salt and massage firmly for 5–8 minutes, until they darken, shrink and release plenty of liquid.
8 minStep 4: Pack handful by handful into the jar, pressing down hard with your fist or a wooden pestle after each layer, until the brine rises above the leaves. Pour in any leftover brine, add a weight, leave 3 cm of space and close the lid loosely.
7 minStep 5: Ferment in a cool place (15–68°F) for 2–3 weeks, pressing down every few days and topping up with 3% brine if the leaves are exposed. Cloudiness, small bubbles and a pickle smell are normal; skim a flat white film. Discard if fuzzy coloured mould, pink or black patches or a rotten smell appear.
Step 6: It is ready when the greens are olive green and taste salty-sour. Move to the fridge and keep under brine up to 2 months.
Nutrition per serving
- Calories
- 10 kcal
- Protein
- 1 g
- Carbs
- 2 g
- Fat
- 0 g
- Fibre
- 2 g
Nutrition values are estimates.
KrazyBadal
Good to know
- How long does xue cai take?
- About 40 minutes in total.
- How many people does it serve?
- 16 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
- Is it vegan?
- Yes. It has no meat, fish, dairy or eggs.
- Is it gluten free?
- Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
- Can I make it ahead?
- Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
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