Xalwo

Step 1: Whisk 4 oz cornflour into 3 ¼ cups cold water until there are no lumps.

Step 2: Put 100 g of 3 ½ oz sugar and ¼ cup water in a heavy, deep pan over a medium heat. Swirl (do not stir) for 6–8 minutes until it becomes a deep amber caramel.

Step 3: Take off the heat and carefully pour in the cornflour mixture — it will spit and the caramel will seize. Return to a medium heat and stir until the caramel dissolves.

Step 4: Add the rest of 10 ½ oz sugar and cook, stirring constantly, for 15 minutes until it thickens and turns translucent.

Step 5: Add ¾ cup ghee or vegetable oil a few spoons at a time, stirring hard after each, then 1 ½ tsp ground cardamom, ½ tsp ground nutmeg and 1 pinch saffron threads. Keep stirring for 25–30 minutes, until very thick, glossy and pulling away from the sides in one mass, with oil pooling at the edges. Common mistake: stopping when it looks thick — it must leave the pan sides clean.

Step 6: Spread into an oiled 20 cm square dish, smooth the top and scatter with 2 tbsp chopped pistachios or almonds.

Step 7: Leave to set for at least 2 hours at room temperature, then cut into small diamonds.