Vegetarian mohinga

Step 1: Put 6 dried shiitake mushrooms, 1 dried kombu and the two bruised stalks of 2 lemongrass stalks in a large pot with 8 ¼ cups water. Bring slowly to a simmer over a medium heat; remove the kombu just before it boils, then simmer for 20 minutes. Lift out the shiitake, slice them and return them to the pot.

Step 2: Meanwhile toast 3 tbsp uncooked white rice in a dry pan over a medium heat for 5–6 minutes, shaking, until deep golden. Grind to a fine powder. Toast 4 tbsp chickpea flour (besan) in the same pan for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until it smells nutty and darkens a shade. Whisk both with 200 ml cold water to a smooth slurry.

Step 3: Heat 4 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry 2 onions for 8 minutes, until soft and golden. Add the chopped 1 lemongrass stalks, 5 garlic cloves and 1 oz fresh ginger and fry for 2 minutes, then stir in 1 tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp sweet paprika and ½ tsp red chilli flakes for 30 seconds.

Step 4: Scrape the onion mixture into the broth with 7 oz banana stem or tinned hearts of palm. Whisk in the slurry and bring back to a simmer, stirring so it doesn't catch. Cook for 15 minutes, until the broth thickens to the body of a light gravy and the banana stem is tender. A common mistake is adding the slurry to fast-boiling broth; it clumps.

Step 5: Season with 2 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp ground black pepper. It should be savoury, gingery and peppery. Remove the lemongrass stalks.

Step 6: Cook 10 ½ oz thin rice vermicelli following the packet and divide between bowls. Ladle over the hot broth and top with 8 split-pea or onion fritters, 4 tbsp crispy fried shallots and 1 handful fresh coriander. Serve with 2 limes and 1 tsp dried chilli flakes.