Torshi liteh

Step 1: Heat the oven to 425°F (400°F fan). Prick the 3 ⅓ lb aubergines a few times and roast on a tray for 45–50 minutes, turning once, until the skins are wrinkled and the flesh collapses when pressed.

Step 2: When cool enough to handle, peel the aubergines and pull out any big seed clusters. Chop the flesh finely, toss with the 2 tbsp fine salt and leave in a colander for 20 minutes.

Step 3: Wrap the aubergine in a clean cloth and squeeze firmly until no more liquid runs out. You should be left with a thick, fairly dry paste.

Step 4: In a large bowl mix the aubergine with the 1 head garlic, 3 tbsp dried mint, 2 tbsp dried parsley, 2 tbsp dried coriander leaf, 1 tbsp dried tarragon, 1 tbsp dried fenugreek leaves, 1 tbsp nigella seeds, 2 tsp ground golpar (Persian hogweed), 2 tsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp chilli flakes and 1 tsp ground black pepper.

Step 5: Pour in about two-thirds of the 1 ¾ cups white grape vinegar (at least 5% acidity) and stir; it should look like a loose, wet porridge. Common mistake: making it stiff. The herbs drink the vinegar as it sits, and a dry pickle spoils at the top.

Step 6: Spoon into clean, oven-dried jars, pressing out air pockets. Pour the rest of the ¾ cup white grape vinegar (at least 5% acidity) over so a thin layer of vinegar sits on top. Close with glass or plastic-lined lids.

Step 7: Keep in a cool, dark cupboard for 2 weeks before eating; it is ready when the herbs have softened and it tastes rounded rather than sharp. Once opened, keep it in the fridge and use a clean spoon. It keeps 6 months.