Tinga de pollo

Step 1: Put 1 ½ lb boneless chicken thighs or breasts, ½ onion, 2 garlic cloves and 1 bay leaf in a pan with 4 ¼ cups water. Bring to a simmer and poach gently for 15–20 minutes, until the thickest part reads 165°F and the juices run clear.

Step 2: Lift out the chicken, keep 200 ml of the broth, and shred the meat with two forks.

Step 3: Blend 1 ⅛ lb ripe tomatoes, 3 chipotle chillies in adobo (start with 2 if unsure of the heat) and 1 garlic clove with the reserved broth until smooth.

Step 4: Heat 2 tbsp sunflower oil in a wide pan over a medium heat and cook 2 white onions for 10 minutes, stirring, until soft, sweet and lightly golden.

Step 5: Pour in the tomato mixture, add ½ tsp dried Mexican oregano and 1 tsp salt, and simmer for 8 minutes until reduced and darker. Taste and blend in another chipotle if you want more heat.

Step 6: Stir in the chicken and simmer for 5 minutes, until the sauce clings and the pan looks almost dry. It keeps 3 days in the fridge; reheat until piping hot.

Step 7: Spread each of 12 tostadas (crisp corn tortillas) with 14 oz refried beans, pile on the tinga and top with 2 handfuls shredded lettuce, ½ cup crema or soured cream, 2 ⅞ oz crumbled queso fresco or feta and 1 avocado.