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Tianjin dongcai
天津冬菜: diced napa cabbage salted, dried and cured with garlic into a golden, savoury seasoning
Tianjin's 'winter vegetable' is made exactly when the name says: in November and December, when napa cabbage is cheap and the northern air is dry and near freezing. The cabbage is diced, salted, dried until it shrinks to a fraction of its weight, then pounded with garlic and salt and packed into earthenware jars to cure through the cold months. It turns golden-brown, chewy and intensely savoury, with a mellow garlic sweetness rather than raw bite. Southern Chinese and Teochew cooks prize it as much as northerners: a teaspoon goes into wonton broth, beef ball soup, steamed pork patties and fish porridge. Common mistake: not drying the cabbage enough; it should lose about 80% of its weight and feel like soft leather, or the cure stays wet and spoils. Since this mix holds fresh garlic and is not acidic, cure it in the fridge, which mimics Tianjin's frozen balconies. It is ready after 3–4 weeks, when the colour has turned amber and the garlic smells sweet and toasty. Keep in the fridge up to 6 months with a dry spoon; discard if mould, slime or a rotten smell appears. Chef's tip: rinse briefly before using; it is very salty and a little goes a long way.
- Total time
- 45 min
- Difficulty
- medium
- Serves
- 24
Ingredients
For the dongcai
- 4 ⅜ lb napa cabbageabout 1 large head
- 2 ⅛ oz saltfor drawing out water
- 4 oz garlicpeeled
- 1 ¾ oz saltfor curing
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What you'll need
Spices & pantry
Fresh ingredients (2)
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Method
0/6 doneStep 1: Cut the 4 ⅜ lb napa cabbage into 1–1.5 cm squares, ribs and leaves alike. Toss with 2 ⅛ oz salt in a large bowl and leave for 2 hours, until limp and sitting in brine.
20 minStep 2: Squeeze handfuls of cabbage as hard as you can and discard the liquid.
10 minStep 3: Spread on trays and dry in sun and wind for 2–4 days (bring in at night), or in a dehydrator or oven at 50–140°F with the door ajar for 8–10 hours, until it has shrunk to about a fifth of its weight and feels soft-leathery, not crisp.
Step 4: Wash a 750 ml jar in hot soapy water and dry it in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes; cool.
10 minStep 6: Pack very tightly into the jar, pressing out all air, and close. Cure in the fridge for 3–4 weeks, turning the jar now and then. It is ready when amber-brown with a sweet garlic smell. Keep refrigerated up to 6 months, dry spoon each time; discard if mould, slime or a rotten smell appears.
Nutrition per serving
- Calories
- 10 kcal
- Protein
- 0 g
- Carbs
- 2 g
- Fat
- 0 g
- Fibre
- 1 g
Nutrition values are estimates.
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Good to know
- How long does tianjin dongcai take?
- About 45 minutes in total.
- How many people does it serve?
- 24 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
- Is it vegan?
- Yes. It has no meat, fish, dairy or eggs.
- Is it gluten free?
- Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
- Can I make it ahead?
- Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
- What can I use instead of napa cabbage?
- Savoy or spring greens, same weight.
- What can I use instead of garlic?
- ½ tsp garlic paste or ⅛ tsp garlic powder per clove.
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