Thingyan rice

Step 1: Pour 5 cups water into a clean jug, add 1 handful unsprayed edible jasmine flowers and chill in the fridge for at least 3 hours, or overnight, so the scent seeps into the water.

Step 2: Rinse 10 ½ oz jasmine rice until the water runs clear. Cook it with 2 cups water: bring to the boil, cover and simmer on the lowest heat for 12 minutes, then rest covered for 10 minutes. It should be just cooked, not soft.

Step 3: Tip the rice into a sieve and rinse under cold running water, rubbing gently with your fingers, until the grains feel clean and separate and the water runs clear. This stops it turning into porridge in the bowl.

Step 4: Spread the rice on a tray, cover and chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. Don't leave cooked rice at room temperature for long.

Step 5: Soak 7 oz salted dried fish, such as snakehead or mackerel in cold water for 10 minutes to take off some of the salt, then pat it completely dry with kitchen paper.

Step 6: Heat 5 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry 4 shallots for 6–8 minutes until golden and crisp, then lift out and drain on kitchen paper.

Step 7: Fry the dried fish in the same oil for 4–5 minutes, turning, until crisp and deep golden. Drain, break into shreds and toss with ½ tsp dried chilli flakes.

Step 8: Toss 1 green (unripe) mango and 1 shallot with 1 tbsp fish sauce, 2 tsp sugar and 1 red chilli. Leave for 5 minutes; it should be sour, sweet and salty in equal measure. Add 1 handful fresh coriander just before serving.

Step 9: Strain the jasmine water. Divide the chilled rice between bowls, drop in 12 ice cubes made from boiled water and pour over enough cold jasmine water to just cover the rice.

Step 10: Serve at once with the fried dried fish, crispy shallots and mango salad in small dishes. Eat with a spoon, adding a little of each side to every mouthful.