Sulguni

Step 1: Warm 16 ¾ cups whole cow's milk to 95°F over a low heat, stir in 1 tsp calcium chloride solution and 2 tbsp live plain yogurt, cover and leave for 45 minutes.

Step 2: Stir in 1 tsp vegetarian liquid rennet, still the milk and leave for 45 minutes, until it gives a clean break.

Step 3: Cut into 2 cm cubes, rest 10 minutes and stir gently for 10 minutes. Drain in a cheesecloth-lined colander for 2 hours, then wrap and leave at room temperature for 6–12 hours, until the curd smells pleasantly sour.

Step 4: Test: drop a thumb-sized piece into water at 167°F for 1 minute, then pull. If it stretches into a long shiny string, it is ready; if it breaks, wait 1–2 hours and test again.

Step 5: Cut the curd into thin slices. Heat 8 ¼ cups water to 75–176°F with 3 tbsp salt. Put the curd in a bowl and pour over enough hot water to cover. Common mistake: boiling water; the cheese turns grainy.

Step 6: Wearing heatproof gloves, work the curd with a wooden spoon for 1–2 minutes until it melts together, then lift and fold it on itself several times until smooth and glossy.

Step 7: Shape into a flat round, tucking the edges underneath, and drop into cold salted water for 30 minutes to firm.

Step 8: Keep in the fridge in a little brine for up to a week.