Spreewälder Gurken

Step 1: Sterilise a 2-litre jar (or two 1-litre jars) and lids: wash in hot soapy water, rinse, then heat the jar in a 250°F oven for 15 minutes and boil the lids for 5 minutes. Let them cool before filling.

Step 2: Soak the 2 ¼ lb small pickling cucumbers in cold water for 1 hour, scrub gently and trim a thin slice from the blossom end, where the enzymes that cause softening sit.

Step 3: Bring the 4 ¼ cups water and 1 ¾ oz fine sea salt (no iodine) to the boil, stir until dissolved and let it cool completely.

Step 4: Put half the 4 dill flower heads or a big bunch of dill, 4 cloves garlic, 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, 4 vine, oak or blackcurrant leaves and 1 slice of fresh horseradish in the jar. Pack the cucumbers in tightly standing upright, then add the rest of the flavourings.

Step 5: Pour over the cold brine so the cucumbers are covered by at least 2 cm; weigh them down with a small clean plate or a zip bag of brine. Close the lid loosely to let gas escape.

Step 6: Leave at cool room temperature (18–72°F) for 5–8 days. The brine turns cloudy and bubbles, and the cucumbers change from bright to olive green; taste one from day 5. A white film on top can be skimmed off, but throw the whole batch away if you see fuzzy or coloured mould or it smells rotten.

Step 7: When they are as sour as you like, close the lid tightly and move to the fridge. They keep for 2–3 months in the fridge, always under the brine; use a clean fork to take them out.