Soto ayam

Step 1: Blend 6 shallots, 4 cloves garlic, 3 candlenuts, 1 ⅝ in fresh turmeric, ¾ in fresh ginger, 1 tsp coriander seeds and ½ tsp white peppercorns with 2 tbsp vegetable oil to a smooth paste; add a spoon of water only if the blades stick.

Step 2: Fry the paste in a large pot over a medium-low heat, stirring often, for 6–8 minutes until it darkens slightly, smells sweet rather than raw and the oil seeps out at the edges.

Step 3: Add 2 stalks lemongrass, 4 makrut lime leaves and 1 ⅛ in galangal and fry for 1 minute.

Step 4: Add 1 ¾ lb bone-in chicken thighs and turn it in the paste for 2 minutes, then pour in 7 ½ cups water. Bring to the boil over a high heat and skim off the grey foam.

Step 5: Lower the heat so the surface barely trembles, half cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Don't let it boil hard. The chicken is done when the thickest part reads 165°F (165 °F) and the juices run clear.

Step 6: Meanwhile, lower 4 eggs into a small pan of boiling water and cook for 9 minutes. Cool in cold water, peel and halve.

Step 7: Soak 3 ½ oz mung bean vermicelli in just-boiled water for 5 minutes until soft and glassy, then drain. Blanch 5 ½ oz bean sprouts in boiling water for 30 seconds and drain.

Step 8: Lift the chicken out, let it cool for a few minutes, then shred the meat and discard skin and bones. Season the broth with 2 tsp salt and taste; it should be savoury and fragrant, with a gentle pepper warmth.

Step 9: Divide the noodles, 3 ½ oz white cabbage, bean sprouts and chicken between deep bowls and top with the egg halves. Ladle over the very hot broth, scatter with 1 handful Chinese celery leaves, 3 tbsp fried shallots and 3 tbsp koya, and serve with 2 limes and 4 tbsp chilli sambal on the side.