Singapore prawn noodle soup

Step 1: Check 1 ⅓ lb raw whole prawns before you start: they should smell clean and briny. Throw away any that smell of ammonia or have soft, slimy shells. Peel them, keeping the shells and heads, then devein the tails and keep them in the fridge.

Step 2: Blanch 1 ⅛ lb pork spare ribs and 1 ⅛ lb pork bones in a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes, until grey scum rises. Drain and rinse them under the tap.

Step 3: Heat 3 tbsp neutral oil in a large, heavy stockpot over a high heat. Add the prawn shells and heads with 10 ½ oz extra prawn shells and heads and fry, pressing them with a spatula, until they turn deep orange-red and smell toasted.

Step 4: Add 6 shallots, 6 garlic cloves and 4 dried red chillies and fry for 2 minutes more, until the shallots are soft and golden at the edges.

Step 5: Pour in 3 litres of water, scraping up the browned bits, then add the blanched ribs and bones, ⅔ oz rock sugar and 1 tsp white peppercorns. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat so the broth bubbles gently.

Step 6: Simmer, half covered, for about 1 hour 15 minutes, skimming now and then, until the ribs are tender enough to pull from the bone and the broth is rich and rust-coloured. Lift out the ribs and set them aside.

Step 7: Strain the broth through a fine sieve, pressing hard on the shells to squeeze out every drop, then return it to a clean pot. You should have about 2 litres; season with 2 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tbsp fish sauce and 1 tsp salt.

Step 8: Bring the broth back to a simmer and poach the peeled prawns for 2–3 minutes, until pink, curled and opaque all the way through. Lift out, halve lengthways and keep the ribs warming in the broth.

Step 9: Bring a separate pot of water to the boil. Blanch 14 oz fresh yellow noodles and the drained 3 ½ oz rice vermicelli together in a sieve for 1 minute, then divide between four deep bowls.

Step 10: In the same water, blanch 5 ½ oz kangkong (water spinach) and 5 ½ oz bean sprouts for 30 seconds, until just wilted, and add to the bowls.

Step 11: Top with the prawns and ribs, ladle over plenty of boiling broth and finish with 3 tbsp fried shallots and a pinch of 1 tsp chilli powder. Serve with 2 red chillies on the side.