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Shan tofu noodles

To hpu nway (တိုဟူးနွေး): rice noodles under warm, silky chickpea porridge with chilli and garlic oil

To hpu nway means 'warm tofu', and it is the Shan tofu mixture caught before it sets: chickpea flour batter cooked into a thick, golden, pourable porridge that market cooks in Taunggyi and Hsipaw ladle over rice noodles on chilly hill mornings. Where Shan tofu salad uses cool, firm cubes, here everything arrives hot and spoonable, a velvety blanket that you stir into the noodles with chilli oil, garlic oil, soy, a dash of vinegar and crunchy pickled mustard greens. It tastes nutty, savoury and gently sour, with heat you add to taste. The common mistake is tipping chickpea flour straight into hot water, which gives lumps that never whisk out; it must be soaked in cold water first. Chef's tip: for a gluten-free bowl, swap the light soy sauce for tamari.
Total time
50 min
Difficulty
medium
Serves
4
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Ingredients

Serves4

For the warm tofu

For the oils and dressing

For the bowls

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Method

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  1. Step 1: Whisk 5 ½ oz chickpea flour (gram flour), ¼ tsp ground turmeric and 1 tsp salt into 1 ¾ cups cold water in a bowl until completely smooth, with no dry lumps. Leave to stand for 10 minutes while you make the oils.

    10 min
  2. Step 2: Heat half the 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a small pan over a medium-low heat and fry 6 garlic cloves for 3–4 minutes, until pale golden. Tip garlic and oil into a bowl.

    4 min
  3. Step 3: Heat the rest of the 3 tbsp vegetable oil until hot but not smoking, then pour it over 2 tsp dried chilli flakes in a heatproof bowl. It should sizzle and turn deep red.

  4. Step 4: Stir 3 tbsp light soy sauce, 2 tbsp rice vinegar and 1 tsp sugar together in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves.

  5. Step 5: Bring 3 ¼ cups water to a simmer in a heavy pan. Whisk the chickpea batter again, then pour it into the pan in a thin stream, whisking all the time.

    3 min
  6. Step 6: Cook over a low heat for 15–20 minutes, stirring often with a whisk or wooden spoon and scraping the bottom, until it thickens to a glossy, yellow porridge like thick custard and no longer tastes raw. Splash in hot water if it gets too stiff; it should fall from a ladle in ribbons.

    20 min
  7. Step 7: Meanwhile, cook 10 ½ oz thin round dried rice noodles in boiling water following the packet, until just tender. Drain and rinse briefly in hot water so they don't stick.

    6 min
  8. Step 8: Divide the noodles between warm bowls and spoon a little of the soy dressing and garlic oil over each.

  9. Step 9: Ladle the hot chickpea porridge over the noodles so it covers them generously.

  10. Step 10: Top with chilli oil to taste, 3 ½ oz pickled mustard greens, 1 ¾ oz roasted peanuts, 2 spring onions, 1 handful fresh coriander and 1 tbsp fermented soybean (thua nao) or toasted sesame seeds. Stir everything together at the table and eat while hot; the porridge sets as it cools.

Nutrition per serving

Calories
560 kcal
Protein
16 g
Carbs
82 g
Fat
20 g
Fibre
7 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does shan tofu noodles take?
About 50 minutes in total: 15 minutes to prepare and 35 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
4 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it vegan?
Yes. It has no meat, fish, dairy or eggs.
What can I use instead of ground turmeric?
Leave it out (it mostly adds colour).
What can I use instead of garlic cloves?
½ tsp garlic paste or ⅛ tsp garlic powder per clove.

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