Seffa

Step 1: Fill the bottom of a couscoussier or a steamer pan with water and bring to the boil over a high heat.

Step 2: Crumble 1 ⅛ lb fine vermicelli nests (seffa or cheveux d'ange) into a large bowl, drizzle with 2 tbsp vegetable oil and toss with your fingers until every strand is coated.

Step 3: Tip the vermicelli into the steamer basket and steam uncovered for 10 minutes, from the moment steam rises through it.

Step 4: Turn it back into the bowl and sprinkle over half of ½ cup water. Toss with a fork until the strands separate, then steam again for 10 minutes.

Step 5: Repeat with the rest of ½ cup water and steam for a final 5–8 minutes, until the vermicelli is completely soft with no chalky bite. Don't skip the second watering; dry vermicelli is the usual reason seffa turns out brittle. Skipping this second watering is a common mistake.

Step 6: Meanwhile toast 4 oz blanched almonds in a dry pan over a medium heat for 5 minutes until golden, then pulse in a food processor or crush with a rolling pin to coarse crumbs. Mix half the crumbs with 2 tablespoons of 2 ⅛ oz icing sugar.

Step 7: Toss the hot vermicelli with 2 ⅛ oz butter and 1 tbsp orange blossom water until glossy.

Step 8: Pile the vermicelli into a tall cone on a round platter. Decorate from the tip to the base with alternating lines of 2 tsp ground cinnamon, the remaining 2 ⅛ oz icing sugar and the almond crumbs. Serve warm, with 2 ½ cups cold milk if you like.