Sandesh

Step 1: Bring 6 ¼ cups full-fat milk to a boil in a heavy pan, take it off the heat and wait 1 minute. Add 3 tbsp lemon juice a spoonful at a time, stirring gently, until the milk splits into soft white curds and clear, greenish whey. Stop adding lemon as soon as the whey turns clear, or the chhena turns sour and hard.

Step 2: Pour in 2 cups iced water at once to stop the cooking and keep the curds soft. Strain through a muslin-lined sieve and rinse under cold water to wash away the lemon taste.

Step 3: Gather the muslin, squeeze lightly and hang for 20–30 minutes, just until it stops dripping. The chhena should feel moist and soft, not dry.

Step 4: Tip the chhena onto a clean worktop and knead it with the heel of your hand for 6–8 minutes, smearing it forward and gathering it back, until it is completely smooth and greasy-feeling with no grains. This kneading is what makes sandesh melt in the mouth.

Step 5: Put the chhena in a non-stick pan with 2 ⅛ oz caster sugar and cook over a low heat for 5–7 minutes, stirring constantly. The sugar first loosens it, then it thickens again. It's ready when it comes away from the sides as a soft mass and no longer feels sticky. Overcooking makes it rubbery.

Step 6: Take off the heat, stir in ¼ tsp ground cardamom and 1 pinch saffron if using, and spread on a plate to cool until just warm.

Step 7: Knead again for 30 seconds, divide into 12 and roll into balls, then flatten gently into discs or press into moulds. Top with 1 tbsp pistachios if you like. Serve at room temperature; they keep for 2 days in the fridge.