Saltah

Step 1: Put 1 ½ lb lamb shoulder on the bone, 6 ¼ cups water, 1 onion, 2 tsp hawaij spice mix (or cumin, black pepper, turmeric, cardamom) and 1 ½ tsp salt in a pot, bring to the boil, skim, then simmer covered for 1½ hours until the lamb is very tender. Lift out the lamb, shred it and keep the broth.

Step 2: Drain the soaked 2 tbsp ground fenugreek, pressing out the bitter water. Whip it with a whisk or electric mixer for 5 minutes, adding 3 tbsp ice-cold water a spoon at a time, until it doubles and turns pale and frothy. Beat in 2 tbsp zhug (green chilli sauce) and 1 tbsp lemon juice.

Step 3: In a heavy pan heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil and cook 1 onion for 6 minutes, then 3 cloves garlic and 1 green chilli for 1 minute. Add 3 tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes until thick.

Step 4: Add 1 potato, the shredded lamb and 400 ml of the broth. Simmer for 12 minutes until the potato is soft and the stew is thick. Crack in 2 eggs and stir to scramble them through if you like; they must be fully set.

Step 5: Bring the stew to a fierce bubble, ideally in a cast-iron or stone pot, and spoon the hulba over the top. Serve at once, still bubbling, with 4 Yemeni flatbread or naan. A common mistake is stirring the hulba in; it should sit on top as a froth.