Reshteh khoshkar (Gilani rice-flour walnut rolls in syrup)

Step 1: Make the syrup: bring 10 ½ oz granulated sugar and ¾ cup water to the boil, stirring until dissolved, then simmer for 6–8 minutes until it reaches 225°F and a drop forms a short thread between finger and thumb.

Step 2: Take off the heat and stir in 1 tsp lemon juice, 2 tbsp rose water and 1 pinch saffron threads, if using. Leave to cool completely.

Step 3: Grind 7 oz walnuts finely in a food processor, then mix with 3 ½ oz caster sugar, 1 tsp ground cardamom and 1 tsp ground cinnamon.

Step 4: Whisk 9 oz fine rice flour with 1 ½ cups cold water into a smooth batter the thickness of single cream, with no lumps. Pour it into a squeeze bottle with a fine nozzle or a jug with a narrow spout.

Step 5: Heat a large flat griddle or heavy frying pan over a medium-high heat and wipe it lightly with 1 ½ tbsp sunflower oil. A drop of batter should set white within seconds.

Step 6: Drizzle the batter in fine back-and-forth lines across the griddle in one direction, then across it the other way, to make a lacy 15 x 20 cm rectangle. Cook for 30–40 seconds, until it is dry and white but not coloured.

Step 7: Peel the net off with a spatula and lay it on a board. Sprinkle 2 tbsp of the filling along one short end, fold in the long sides and roll it up firmly into a 10 cm roll.

Step 8: Repeat with the rest of the batter and filling to make about 16 rolls, regreasing the griddle as needed and keeping the finished rolls covered with a cloth.

Step 9: Heat the rest of 4 cups sunflower oil in a deep pan to 350°F. Fry the rolls 4–5 at a time for 2–3 minutes, turning, until crisp and pale golden.

Step 10: Lift them out with a slotted spoon, drain for a few seconds and drop them straight into the cool syrup for 1 minute, turning once. The common mistake is leaving them in the syrup too long, which makes them soggy.

Step 11: Set on a rack to drain and cool. They keep in a tin for 4–5 days.