Ragù napoletano

Step 1: Lay out the 4 thin beef slices (topside), scatter each with 2 cloves garlic, 3 tbsp parsley, 2 tbsp pine nuts, 2 tbsp raisins and 3 tbsp grated pecorino, then roll up tightly and tie with string.

Step 2: Heat the 4 tbsp olive oil in a large heavy pot over a medium heat and brown the braciole, 1 ⅓ lb beef chuck and 1 ⅛ lb pork spare ribs in batches until well coloured all over, about 12 minutes in all. Set aside.

Step 3: Lower the heat, add the 2 onions and cook gently for 10 minutes until soft and golden, without browning hard.

Step 4: Return all the meat, pour in the ¾ cup red wine and let it bubble for 3 minutes until the alcohol smell has gone.

Step 5: Stir in the 2 tbsp double-concentrated tomato purée and cook 2 minutes, then add the 6 ¼ cups tomato passata, 1 handful fresh basil, 1 ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper.

Step 6: Bring just to a simmer, set the lid ajar and cook on the lowest heat for 4 hours, stirring every 30 minutes so it doesn't catch. Add a splash of water if it thickens too much.

Step 7: It is ready when the sauce is dark brick-red with oil on the surface and the meat is tender enough to break with a spoon; the pork will be well past 160°F.

Step 8: Lift out the meat and remove the strings from the braciole. Toss some sauce with pasta for the first course and serve the meat with the rest as the second.