Polenta di patate

Step 1: Put 1 ¾ lb potatoes in a heavy pan with 4 ¼ cups water and 1 ½ tsp salt, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes, until very soft.

Step 2: Mash the potatoes roughly in their water with a potato masher, leaving the pan over a low heat.

Step 3: Sift in 3 ½ oz buckwheat flour a spoonful at a time, whisking constantly. Common mistake: adding the flour in one go; the buckwheat forms grey lumps that won't smooth out.

Step 4: Cook over a low heat for 15–20 minutes, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until thick, smooth and coming away from the sides of the pan.

Step 5: Meanwhile cook 1 onion in 1 ⅜ oz butter in a small pan over a medium heat for 8–10 minutes, until soft and golden.

Step 6: Stir the onions and their butter into the polenta, then fold in 5 ½ oz Asiago or a mountain cheese and ¼ tsp black pepper and take the pan off the heat.

Step 7: Spoon onto warm plates while the cheese is still in soft, melting pockets.