Polenta concia

Step 1: Bring 5 cups water to the boil in a large heavy pan and add 1 ½ tsp salt.

Step 2: Lower the heat to medium and pour in 9 oz coarse cornmeal (polenta) in a thin rain, whisking all the time. Common mistake: tipping the cornmeal in at once; it forms lumps that never cook out.

Step 3: Turn the heat to low, switch to a wooden spoon and cook for about 40 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until the polenta is thick, glossy and pulls away from the sides of the pan.

Step 4: Warm a deep serving dish. Spread a third of the polenta in it and scatter over half of 8 oz fontina cheese.

Step 5: Add another third of the polenta, the rest of the cheese, then the last of the polenta.

Step 6: Melt 2 ⅞ oz butter in a small pan over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes, until it foams, smells nutty and turns light brown.

Step 7: Pour the sizzling butter over the polenta, grind over ¼ tsp black pepper and serve at once, scooping deep so everyone gets cheese.