Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

Step 1: Mix 10 ½ oz buckwheat flour and 3 ½ oz plain flour in a bowl, add 1 cup lukewarm water and knead for 5 minutes into a firm, slightly crumbly dough. Rest it, covered, for 10 minutes.

Step 2: Roll the dough on a floured board to 2–3 mm thick. Cut into strips 7 cm wide, then cut each strip across into ribbons about 1 cm wide.

Step 3: Bring a large pot of water to the boil with 1 tbsp salt. Add 9 oz waxy potatoes and 9 oz savoy cabbage and cook for 5 minutes.

Step 4: Add the pizzoccheri to the same pot and boil for about 10 minutes, until the pasta is tender and the potatoes are soft.

Step 5: Meanwhile melt 3 ½ oz butter in a small pan over a low heat with 2 cloves garlic and 8 leaves fresh sage for 4–5 minutes, until golden and fragrant. Lift out the garlic.

Step 6: Drain the pasta and vegetables with a slotted spoon, letting some water cling. Common mistake: draining them bone dry in a colander; the dish ends up stodgy rather than creamy.

Step 7: Layer a third of the pasta mix in a warm deep dish, then a third of 7 oz Valtellina Casera cheese and 2 ⅛ oz Grana Padano. Repeat twice.

Step 8: Pour over the hot sage butter, grind over ¼ tsp black pepper, wait 2 minutes for the cheese to melt, then lift and fold gently with two forks and serve.