Pavakka achar

Step 1: Prepare the jar: wash jar and lid in hot soapy water, rinse well, then stand the jar upside down in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes (or boil jar and lid for 10 minutes and let them dry upside down). Let it cool completely; jar, lid, bowls and spoons must be bone dry, because a single drop of water is the usual reason a pickle goes mouldy.

Step 2: Wash and dry the 1 ⅛ lb bitter gourd (pavakka). Cut into thin rounds about 3 mm thick, scooping out any hard seeds. Toss with 2 tsp salt and ½ tsp ground turmeric and leave for 30 minutes, then squeeze out the bitter juice and pat dry.

Step 3: Heat ¾ cup coconut or sunflower oil in a wide pan over a medium-high heat. Fry the bitter gourd in batches, stirring, until deep golden and crisp at the edges and the bubbling slows, 6–8 minutes per batch. Drain on paper and cool.

Step 4: Heat 4 tbsp gingelly (sesame) oil in a clean pan over a medium heat. Add 1 tsp mustard seeds; when it pops, add 15 garlic cloves, 1 ⅜ oz fresh ginger, 4 green chillies and 2 sprig curry leaves and fry until the garlic is golden, about 3 minutes.

Step 5: Lower the heat and stir in 3 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder, ½ tsp gluten-free asafoetida and ½ tsp fenugreek powder, roasted for 30 seconds until fragrant and red.

Step 6: Pour in ½ cup white vinegar with 2 tsp sugar and 1 tsp salt. Simmer on a low heat for 3–4 minutes until the sharp smell softens and the oil starts to separate.

Step 7: Add the fried bitter gourd, stir to coat and turn off the heat. The masala should be thick and cling to the rounds.

Step 8: Cool completely, then pack into the dry jar and press down. Keep in the fridge for up to 1 month, always with a clean dry spoon. Throw it away if you see mould, a bulging lid, fizzing or an off smell.