Patishapta

Step 1: Cook 7 oz fresh grated coconut with 5 ½ oz date-palm jaggery (nolen gur) or soft brown jaggery in a pan over a medium-low heat, stirring constantly, for 10–12 minutes until the jaggery melts, then dries back into a sticky mass that holds together when pressed. Stir in ½ tsp ground cardamom and 1 ¾ oz khoya (milk solids) if using. Cool.

Step 2: Whisk 3 ½ oz rice flour, 1 ¾ oz fine semolina (suji), 1 ¾ oz plain flour (maida), 1 tbsp sugar and 1 pinch salt with 1 ¾ cups milk to a smooth batter that pours like single cream. Rest for 20 minutes; the semolina swells and the batter thickens slightly, so add a splash of milk if needed.

Step 3: Heat a non-stick frying pan over a low-medium heat. Dip the cut side of 1 small potato in 2 tbsp ghee and rub it over the pan.

Step 4: Pour in a ladleful of batter and swirl to a thin 18 cm round. Cook for 1 minute until the top looks dry and the edges just lift. Common mistake: too high a heat; the crêpe browns and turns brittle and cracks when rolled.

Step 5: Spoon 2 tbsp of filling in a line near one edge and roll the crêpe up in the pan with a spatula. Cook for 20 seconds more, then lift onto a plate. Repeat with the rest, regreasing each time.

Step 6: Serve warm or at room temperature, on their own or with a drizzle of liquid nolen gur. They keep, covered, in the fridge for 2 days.