Pastéis de bacalhau

Step 1: Taste a flake of the soaked 14 oz dried salt cod: it should be pleasantly seasoned, not harshly salty. If it is still very salty, soak for a few more hours in fresh water in the fridge.

Step 2: Put the cod in a pan of cold water, bring to a gentle simmer and poach for 8–10 minutes until it is opaque all the way through and flakes easily.

Step 3: Drain and cool, then remove skin and bones and shred the flesh finely with your fingers or in a clean cloth, rubbing until it is in thin threads.

Step 4: Meanwhile steam or bake 14 oz floury potatoes in their skins until tender all the way through, about 25 minutes. Peel while warm and push through a ricer or mash until completely smooth. Let the steam escape for 5 minutes.

Step 5: Mix the cod, potato, 1 onion, 4 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, ½ tsp black pepper and 1 pinch ground nutmeg, then beat in 3 eggs one at a time. The mixture should be firm enough to hold a shape on a spoon; if it slumps, chill it for 20 minutes.

Step 6: Heat 4 ¼ cups sunflower oil in a deep pan to 350°F. Using two wet tablespoons, scoop up some mixture and pass it from spoon to spoon until it forms a neat three-sided oval.

Step 7: Slide the croquettes into the oil 5 or 6 at a time and fry for 3–4 minutes, turning, until deep golden brown all over and the bubbling around them slows.

Step 8: Drain on kitchen paper. Serve hot or at room temperature, with salad or arroz de tomate.