Pan de muerto

Step 1: Mix 1 ⅛ lb strong white bread flour, 3 ½ oz caster sugar, ¼ oz fast-action dried yeast, 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp ground aniseed in a large bowl. Add the warm ½ cup whole milk, 4 eggs, 1 tbsp orange zest and 1 tbsp orange-blossom water and mix to a sticky dough.

Step 2: Knead for 8 minutes, then work in the soft 4 ½ oz unsalted butter a spoonful at a time and knead 8–10 minutes more, until the dough is glossy, pulls away from the bowl and stretches thin without tearing. A common mistake is adding extra flour to tame the stickiness; it makes a dry, bready loaf, so keep kneading instead.

Step 3: Cover and leave in a warm place for 1½–2 hours until doubled. Cut off about a fifth of the dough, wrap it and chill it for the bones.

Step 4: Divide the rest into 2 pieces, shape each into a tight smooth ball and set them on a lined tray. Roll the chilled dough into 4 thin ropes, then press your fingers along them to make knobbly bones; lay 2 crossways over each loaf and add a small ball on top, gluing with 1 egg yolk.

Step 5: Cover loosely and prove 45–60 minutes until puffy and a fingertip leaves a slow-filling dent. Heat the oven to 350°F (325°F fan). Brush the loaves with the rest of the egg wash.

Step 6: Bake for 25–30 minutes until deep golden and hollow-sounding underneath; cover with foil after 15 minutes if the bones are browning fast.

Step 7: While still warm, brush all over with 1 ¾ oz unsalted butter and roll or sprinkle generously with 2 ⅞ oz caster sugar. Cool on a rack before slicing.