Nutmeg jelly

Step 1: Wash the 2 ¼ lb nutmeg fruit flesh, cut each one open and remove the seed with its red mace (keep a few mace blades for the jars). Chop the flesh roughly; pectin is in the skin too, so do not peel.

Step 2: Put the flesh in a large pan with the 6 ¼ cups water, bring to a boil over a high heat, then simmer, partly covered, for 30–40 minutes, until the fruit is very soft and falls apart when pressed with a spoon.

Step 3: Pour into a scalded jelly bag or a sieve lined with damp muslin over a bowl and leave to drip for at least 2 hours, without squeezing, so the jelly stays clear.

Step 4: Put a saucer in the freezer. Wash 4 jars of 250 ml and their lids in hot soapy water, rinse, then heat the jars in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes and boil the lids for 5 minutes.

Step 5: Measure the juice and weigh 750 g 1 ⅔ lb sugar for each litre. Bring the juice and 3 tbsp lime juice juice to a boil in a wide pan, add the sugar (and the ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg if using apples or quinces), and stir until it has dissolved.

Step 6: Boil hard without stirring for 8–12 minutes, until the bubbles become slow and glossy. Test early: a drop on the frozen saucer should wrinkle when pushed after 30 seconds, or the thermometer should read 104–225°F. Take the pan off the heat while you test so it does not overcook.

Step 7: Skim off the foam, put a blade of 4 mace blades in each hot jar if you like, and ladle in the jelly, leaving 5 mm headspace. Wipe the rims and close.

Step 8: For the cupboard, boil the closed jars on a rack covered by 2–3 cm of water for 5 minutes, then lift out and leave undisturbed for 24 hours to set.

Step 9: Sealed jars keep for a year in a cool, dark place; once opened, keep in the fridge for up to a month and use a clean, dry knife each time. Discard it if you see mould, it fizzes or smells fermented, or the lid bulges.