Muri ghonto

Step 1: Rub 1 ⅓ lb rohu or catla fish head, gills removed, split in two with ½ tsp ground turmeric and ½ tsp salt and leave for 10 minutes in the fridge.

Step 2: Heat 3 tbsp mustard oil in a karai over a medium-high heat until it just smokes, then fry the head for 4–5 minutes on each side, covered with a splatter guard, until deep golden. Lift out.

Step 3: Fry 2 potatoes in the same oil for 4–5 minutes until golden at the edges, then lift out.

Step 4: When the head is cool enough to handle, break it into 6–8 pieces with your fingers, keeping the soft flesh and discarding any loose sharp bones you can see.

Step 5: Add the remaining 2 tbsp mustard oil to the pan over a medium heat with 2 bay leaves, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 3 green cardamom pods and 1 cinnamon stick and let them crackle.

Step 6: Add 1 onion and fry for 5–6 minutes until golden, then stir in 2 tsp ginger paste, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp red chilli powder, the remaining ½ tsp ground turmeric and a splash of water and fry for 2 minutes until the oil separates.

Step 7: Drain 2 ⅛ oz gobindobhog, kalijira or other short-grain aromatic rice and add it with the potatoes, 1 tsp sugar and the remaining 1 tsp salt; stir for 2 minutes until the rice is coated.

Step 8: Pour in 1 ½ cups hot water, cover and simmer over a low heat for 15–20 minutes until the rice and potato are soft.

Step 9: Fold in the fish pieces and cook uncovered for 4–5 minutes, stirring and pressing gently, until it becomes a thick mash with no liquid left. Add 3 green chillies.

Step 10: Finish with 1 tbsp ghee and 1 /2 tsp ground garam masala and serve hot with plain rice.