Sev puri

Step 1: For the papdi, rub 1 tbsp sunflower oil into 4 oz plain flour, 1 tbsp fine semolina and ½ tsp salt until it looks like breadcrumbs and holds together when squeezed. Add 3 ½ tbsp water little by little to make a stiff dough, firmer than chapati dough. Cover and rest for 15 minutes.

Step 2: Roll the dough out very thin, about 2 mm, and cut 6 cm rounds with a cutter. Prick each one 4–5 times with a fork so they don't puff up. Re-roll the scraps; you should get about 28.

Step 3: Heat 2 cups sunflower oil in a kadai over a medium-low heat to about 325°F; a scrap of dough should rise slowly with small bubbles. Fry the papdi 8–10 at a time for 3–4 minutes, turning, until pale golden and crisp, and the bubbling has nearly stopped. Common mistake: frying them hot and fast. They brown outside and stay chewy in the middle. Drain and cool; they crisp further as they cool.

Step 4: Mix 2 potatoes with 1 tsp chaat masala, ½ tsp red chilli powder and a pinch of salt.

Step 5: To assemble, lay 6–7 papdi flat on each plate. Top each with a teaspoon of potato, then a little 1 red onion and ½ raw green mango if using.

Step 6: Drizzle over 4 tbsp green coriander and mint chutney, then 5 tbsp sweet tamarind and date chutney, then a few dots of 2 tbsp red garlic chutney, thinned with a little water. Cover completely with a big handful of 3 ½ oz fine nylon sev, scatter with 3 tbsp fresh coriander, squeeze over a few drops of ½ lemon and serve at once.