Couscous with gueddid

Step 1: A day ahead, rub 1 ⅓ lb boneless lamb leg with 1 tbsp fine sea salt, 1 tbsp ground coriander, 2 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp sweet paprika, 4 garlic cloves and 2 tbsp white vinegar. Cover and leave in the fridge for 24 hours.

Step 2: Heat the oven to 194°F (fan 176°F). Lay the strips on a rack over a tray and dry for about 4 hours with the door propped open a crack, until they are dark, firm and leathery. Cool, then refrigerate if not using straight away.

Step 3: On the day, rinse the gueddid and soak it in cold water for 30 minutes, then cut into 5 cm pieces. A common mistake is skipping the soak; the salt cure would overpower the broth.

Step 4: Put the gueddid, 2 onions, 2 tomatoes, ¼ cup olive oil, 1 tsp ground ginger, 1 tsp ground black pepper and ½ tsp ground turmeric in the base of a couscoussier or a large pot and stir over a medium heat for 5 minutes.

Step 5: Add 5 ½ oz dried chickpeas, 1 bunch coriander and parsley and 10 ½ cups water, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 45 minutes.

Step 6: Meanwhile, put 1 ⅛ lb medium couscous in a wide bowl, rub in 3 tbsp olive oil, then sprinkle over a third of ½ cup cold water and rake with your fingers until every grain is moist. Leave 10 minutes.

Step 7: Tip the couscous into the steamer basket, set it over the simmering broth and steam uncovered for 15 minutes from when steam rises through the grains.

Step 8: Tip it back into the bowl, break up the lumps, sprinkle with 1 tsp salt and another third of ½ cup cold water, and rake again until fluffy.

Step 9: Add 3 carrots, 3 small turnips and ¼ white cabbage to the broth and simmer for 15 minutes. Meanwhile steam the couscous a second time for 15 minutes.

Step 10: Add 2 courgettes and 14 oz pumpkin or squash to the broth and simmer for 15–20 minutes until all the vegetables are tender. Rake the couscous with the last of ½ cup cold water and steam it a third time for 15 minutes, until light and swollen.

Step 11: Taste the broth and add 1 tsp salt if needed. Discard the herbs.

Step 12: Mound the couscous on a platter, make a well in the middle, put the gueddid and chickpeas in it and arrange the vegetables around. Moisten with several ladles of broth and serve the rest in a bowl.