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Milagu kuzhambu

மிளகு குழம்பு (milagu kuzhambu): Tamil black pepper and tamarind gravy cooked down in sesame oil

Milagu kuzhambu is the Tamil Brahmin travel curry: a dark, peppery tamarind gravy cooked down in sesame oil until thick, packed in a steel tin for train journeys and pilgrimages because it keeps for days without spoiling. At home it is mixed into hot rice with a spoon of ghee, on rainy days or when someone has a cold, and eaten with a plain poriyal or appalam. A little goes a long way: it is sharp, hot and slightly sweet. The usual mistake is pulling it off the heat too soon; it must reduce until the oil floats on top, or it tastes raw and won't keep. Store it covered in the fridge for up to 5 days and always use a dry spoon. Chef's tip: roast the pepper and lentils on a low heat until you smell them, not until they darken, because burnt pepper turns the whole pot bitter.
Total time
45 min
Difficulty
easy
Serves
6
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Ingredients

Serves6

For the pepper paste

For the gravy

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Method

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  1. Step 1: Heat 1 tsp of the ½ tbsp sesame oil (gingelly) in a heavy pot over a low heat. Roast 2 tbsp black peppercorns, 1 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tbsp toor dal, 1 tbsp urad dal and 2 dried red chillies for 4–5 minutes, stirring, until the dals turn pale gold and the pepper smells strong. Add 1 sprig curry leaves for the last 30 seconds.

    5 min
  2. Step 2: Tip everything onto a plate, cool for 5 minutes, then grind to a fine paste with the ½ cup water.

    6 min
  3. Step 3: Squeeze the 1 ⅜ oz tamarind in its soaking water and strain, pressing the pulp; you should have about 450 ml of thin juice.

    3 min
  4. Step 4: Heat the rest of the 4 ½ tbsp sesame oil (gingelly) in the same pot over a medium heat. Add 1 tsp mustard seeds and ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds; when the mustard pops, add ¼ tsp asafoetida (gluten-free hing) and 8 cloves garlic and fry for 2 minutes until the garlic is golden.

    3 min
  5. Step 5: Pour in the tamarind juice with ¼ tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp jaggery and bring to a boil. Simmer for 10 minutes until the raw tamarind smell fades.

    10 min
  6. Step 6: Stir in the pepper paste and simmer on a low heat for 10–15 minutes, stirring often, until the gravy is thick enough to coat a spoon and a film of oil floats on top.

    15 min
  7. Step 7: Serve a few spoonfuls mixed into hot rice with a little sesame oil or ghee. Cool and refrigerate the rest in a clean jar for up to 5 days.

    1 min

Nutrition per serving

Calories
130 kcal
Protein
2 g
Carbs
9 g
Fat
11 g
Fibre
2 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

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Good to know

How long does milagu kuzhambu take?
About 45 minutes in total: 10 minutes to prepare and 35 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
6 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it vegan?
Yes. It has no meat, fish, dairy or eggs.
Is it gluten free?
Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
Is it very spicy?
It has some heat. Use less chilli for a milder version, or more if you like it hot.
Can I make it ahead?
Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
What can I use instead of black peppercorns?
Ground black pepper, a little less than the amount.
What can I use instead of coriander seeds?
Ground coriander, same amount (add it later in the cooking; it burns faster).

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