Machaca de pescado

Step 1: Bring a wide pan of water to a gentle simmer with two-thirds of 1 tsp salt. Slide in 1 ⅓ lb firm white fish fillets and poach until it is opaque all the way through and flakes easily with a fork.

Step 2: Lift the fish out, let it cool for a few minutes, then flake it finely with your fingers, removing any bones.

Step 3: Squeeze handfuls of the flaked fish firmly to press out the water. Skipping this is the most common mistake: it leaves the machaca soggy and bland.

Step 4: Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Fry 1 white onion, 1 green pepper, 2 garlic and 2 serrano chillies until soft and the onion is golden at the edges.

Step 5: Add 3 tomatoes and ½ tsp dried Mexican oregano and cook until the tomatoes have broken down into a thick sauce.

Step 6: Add the fish and the rest of ½ tsp salt and fry, stirring and turning, until the mixture is almost dry and the fish has taken on the colour of the tomato.

Step 7: Taste for salt, scatter with coriander and serve hot in tortillas.