Nihari kulcha

Step 1: Dry-roast 1 tsp fennel seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 4 cloves, 4 green cardamom pods, 1 black cardamom pod, 1 ⅛ in cinnamon stick, 1 tsp black peppercorns and 1 mace blade in a small pan over a low heat for 2 minutes until fragrant. Cool and grind fine, then mix in ¼ tsp grated nutmeg and 1 tsp ground dried ginger (sonth).

Step 2: Heat 2 ⅞ oz ghee in a large heavy casserole over a medium heat and fry 2 onions for 12–15 minutes, stirring, until deep golden. Lift out half the onions with a slotted spoon and keep for the garnish.

Step 3: Add 2 ¼ lb mutton or lamb shank (nalli), on the bone to the pot and brown on all sides for 8 minutes. Add 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste and fry for 2 minutes.

Step 4: Stir in two thirds of the spice mix, 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, ½ tsp ground turmeric and most of the 1 ¾ tsp salt (keep ¼ tsp for the kulcha), then the 3 ½ oz plain yoghurt a spoonful at a time, stirring until the ghee separates.

Step 5: Pour in 6 ¼ cups hot water, bring to the boil, then cover tightly and cook on the lowest possible heat for 3½ hours, until the meat comes away from the bone at a touch. Common mistake: letting it boil; the meat goes stringy and the gravy cloudy.

Step 6: Meanwhile make the kulcha dough: mix 10 ½ oz plain flour, 1 tbsp sugar, 1 tsp baking powder, ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda and the reserved salt. Add 2 tbsp plain yoghurt, ¾ cup warm milk and half the 4 tbsp ghee and knead for 5 minutes into a soft dough. Cover and rest for 2 hours while the nihari cooks.

Step 7: Whisk 3 tbsp wholewheat flour (atta) into ¾ cup cold water until smooth. Stir into the pot with the rest of the spice mix and simmer uncovered, stirring gently, for 15 minutes, until the gravy is silky and coats a spoon. Check the salt.

Step 8: Heat the oven to 475°F (fan 425°F) with a baking tray inside. Divide the dough into 6, roll into 15 cm ovals, prick with a fork and bake on the hot tray for 6–8 minutes, until puffed with golden patches. Brush with the remaining melted ghee.

Step 9: Ladle the nihari into bowls and top with the reserved fried onion, ⅔ oz fresh ginger, 3 green chillies and ⅓ oz fresh coriander. Serve with 1 lemon to squeeze and the warm kulcha.