Lort cha (vegetarian)

Step 1: Put 14 oz fresh rice pin noodles (lort) in a bowl, pour over warm tap water to cover and swish for 30 seconds until the strands separate. Drain well in a colander and shake off as much water as you can; wet noodles steam instead of frying.

Step 2: Stir together 1 ½ tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tsp dark soy sauce, 1 tbsp vegetarian mushroom stir-fry sauce, 1 tsp sugar, ¼ tsp ground white pepper and 2 tbsp water in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves.

Step 3: Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a large non-stick frying pan or wok over a high heat until it shimmers. Add 4 garlic cloves and stir for 20–30 seconds, until pale gold and fragrant.

Step 4: Tip in the noodles and spread them out in an even layer. Leave them untouched for about 1 minute, until the underside picks up a few golden patches.

Step 5: Pour the sauce over and toss gently with a spatula, lifting from underneath rather than chopping through, until every noodle is evenly brown. Spread out again and leave for another minute to catch.

Step 6: Add 2 ⅞ oz white cabbage if using, then 5 ½ oz bean sprouts and most of the 1 ⅔ oz garlic chives. Toss for 1–2 minutes, until the sprouts are hot but still crunchy and the chives have just wilted.

Step 7: Taste a noodle; it should be sweet-salty with a little smoky char. Add a few drops more soy if needed, then divide between two plates and keep warm.

Step 8: Wipe out the pan, add 1 tbsp vegetable oil and set over a medium-high heat. Crack in 2 eggs and fry for 2–3 minutes, spooning a little hot oil over the whites, until the edges are frilly and golden and the whites are fully set.

Step 9: Slide an egg onto each plate of noodles and scatter over the rest of the ⅜ oz garlic chives. Spoon 2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce over the egg, add 4 tbsp Khmer pickled vegetables and 1 fresh red chilli on the side if you like, and eat straight away.