Lekkerbekje

Step 1: Stir together 6 tbsp mayonnaise, 2 gherkins, 1 tsp capers, 1 tsp Dijon mustard and 1 tbsp parsley. Chill until needed.

Step 2: Pour 5 cups sunflower oil into a deep, heavy pan, no more than a third of the way up the side, and heat to 350°F. Check with a thermometer, or drop in a cube of bread: it should brown in about 60 seconds. Never leave hot oil unattended.

Step 3: Pat 4 whiting or cod fillets dry with kitchen paper and dust lightly with 2 tbsp plain flour.

Step 4: Whisk 5 ½ oz plain flour, 1 tsp baking powder and 1 tsp fine salt with 1 cup ice-cold sparkling water into a batter like thick cream; a few lumps are fine.

Step 5: Dip a fillet in the batter, let the excess drip off and lower it away from you into the oil. Fry 2 at a time for 4–5 minutes, turning once, until deep golden and crisp and the fish inside is opaque and flakes easily. Common mistake: frying all four at once; the oil drops and the batter turns greasy and pale.

Step 6: Drain on a rack over kitchen paper. Serve at once with the remoulade and 1 lemon.