Leche flan

Step 1: Put 3 ½ oz sugar and 2 tbsp water in two llaneras (oval tins of about 18 × 12 cm) or a 20 cm round tin set directly over a low-medium heat. Swirl, without stirring, until the sugar melts and turns deep amber and smells like toffee, 5–6 minutes. Tilt to coat the base, then leave to set hard.

Step 2: In a bowl, break up 10 egg yolks gently with a spoon. Stir in 14 oz sweetened condensed milk, then 1 ½ cups evaporated milk, 1 tsp calamansi or lime zest and 1 tsp vanilla extract, stirring slowly in one direction so you don't beat in air.

Step 3: Pour the custard through a fine sieve into a jug, then sieve it again into the tins over the set caramel. Cover each tin tightly with foil.

Step 4: Bring 5 cm of water to the boil in a steamer or a wide pot with a rack, then turn it down to the lowest simmer. Set the tins in, cover the pot with a lid wrapped in a tea towel, and steam for 35–45 minutes. A rolling boil is the common mistake: the custard puffs and fills with holes.

Step 5: Check by jiggling a tin: the flan is done when the edge is firm and the centre wobbles as one piece, like set jelly, and a knife inserted near the middle comes out clean.

Step 6: Lift the tins out, cool to room temperature, then chill for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Step 7: Run a thin knife around the edge, put a plate on top and flip in one quick move. Lift off the tin and let the caramel run over. Cut into small slices; it keeps for 4 days in the fridge.