Lanzhou beef noodle soup

Step 1: Soak 1 ¾ lb beef shank (and the bones if using) in cold water for 1 hour, changing the water once; this draws out blood and keeps the broth clear. Use a separate board for raw beef.

Step 2: Put the beef into a large pot with fresh cold water, bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes. Drain, rinse the meat and bones, and wash the pot.

Step 3: Return the beef to the pot with 14 ½ cups water and 1 oz fresh ginger. Tie 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, 1 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 tsp fennel seeds, 1 black cardamom pod and 1 tsp white peppercorns in a muslin bag and add it. Bring slowly to a simmer and skim off all the foam.

Step 4: Keep the broth at a lazy simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours, until a chopstick slides through the shank. Letting it boil hard is the common mistake: the fat emulsifies and the broth turns cloudy. The braised shank will be well past medium (145°F / 145 °F) and should be fork-tender.

Step 5: Meanwhile, make the chilli oil: put 4 tbsp Chinese chilli flakes and ¼ tsp salt in a heatproof bowl. Heat ½ cup neutral oil to about 350°F, until a scrap of ginger sizzles hard, and pour it over in three goes, stirring. Leave to cool and settle.

Step 6: If pulling noodles by hand, mix 1 ⅛ lb strong bread flour, 1 ¼ cups water, ⅛ oz salt and the 1 ½ tsp baked bicarbonate of soda dissolved in 2 tablespoons of the water, knead for 10 minutes, then rest under oil for 1 hour. Stretch portions into long ropes, fold and pull until thin. Otherwise skip to the next step.

Step 7: Lift out the beef and bag of spices. Strain the broth through a fine sieve or cloth back into a clean pot, season with 2 ½ tsp salt and add 14 oz white radish (mooli). Simmer for 10 minutes until the radish is tender and translucent.

Step 8: Slice the cooled beef thinly across the grain.

Step 9: Cook 1 ⅛ lb fresh or dried thin wheat noodles (ramen-style) in a separate pan of boiling water as the packet says, usually 2–4 minutes, then drain. Cooking them in the broth makes it starchy.

Step 10: Divide the noodles between deep bowls, ladle over the hot broth and radish, and top with beef slices, ⅔ oz coriander and 3 garlic shoots or spring onions. Spoon a tablespoon of chilli oil, with flakes, over each bowl.