Koy pa

Step 1: Toast 3 tbsp raw glutinous (sticky) rice in a dry frying pan over a medium-low heat with 1 lemongrass stalk and the 2 torn 1 ½ makrut lime leaves, stirring, for 8–10 minutes, until the rice is deep golden and smells of popcorn.

Step 2: Cool the rice, discard the lemongrass and leaves, and grind it to a coarse sandy powder in a mortar or spice grinder.

Step 3: Bring 1 litre water and 1 tsp salt to a gentle simmer in a wide pan. Slide in 1 ⅛ lb skinless firm white fish fillets (tilapia, catfish or snakehead) and poach over a low heat for 6–8 minutes, until opaque all the way through and flaking easily with a fork.

Step 4: Lift out the fish and drain it on a plate for 10 minutes, until cool enough to handle and no longer steaming. Hot fish turns the salad pasty.

Step 5: Chop the fish finely on a board with a heavy knife, almost to a coarse mince, and put it in a bowl.

Step 6: Add 4 tbsp lime juice, 2 tbsp fish sauce, 2 tsp roasted dried chilli flakes, 1 thumb-sized piece galangal, 3 shallots and the shredded 1 ½ makrut lime leaves, and mix well.

Step 7: Just before serving, fold in 2 tablespoons of the rice powder with 1 large handful mint leaves, 1 small bunch dill, 3 spring onions and 1 small handful sawtooth coriander or coriander. Taste: it should be sour, salty and hot, with a nutty crunch. Add more lime or fish sauce as needed.

Step 8: Pile onto a plate, sprinkle over the remaining rice powder and serve with sticky rice and 1 plate raw vegetables (long beans, cabbage, cucumber).