Khua kling

Step 1: Drain the 10 dried long red chillies. Pound 1 tsp black peppercorns and ½ tsp salt in a mortar, then add the soaked chillies, 8 bird's eye chillies, 2 stalks lemongrass, ½ oz galangal and ⅞ oz fresh turmeric and pound for 5 minutes. Add 4 shallots, 6 cloves garlic and 1 tsp shrimp paste and pound to a smooth, thick paste.

Step 2: Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a wok over a medium heat and fry the paste, stirring, for 2 minutes until very fragrant. Open a window: the chilli fumes are strong.

Step 3: Add 1 ⅛ lb minced pork or beef and turn the heat to medium-high. Stir-fry, pressing and chopping with the spatula, for 4–5 minutes until the meat is broken into fine crumbs and coated in paste.

Step 4: Add 3 tbsp water, 1 tbsp fish sauce and 1 tsp palm sugar and keep stir-frying, scraping the base of the wok, for 6–8 minutes until all the liquid has gone, the crumbs are dry and separate and the meat reaches 160°F (160 °F) with no pink. Don't add more water or cover the pan: it would steam, not dry-fry, and turn into a wet mince.

Step 5: Stir in 8 makrut lime leaves and fry for 1 more minute until they smell sharp and citrusy. Taste and add a pinch more salt if needed.

Step 6: Pile onto a plate, scatter with sliced red chilli and serve with jasmine rice, cucumber and long beans.