Khmer red chicken curry

Step 1: Drain 6 large dried red chillies, then pound or blend them with 3 lemongrass stalks, ⅔ oz galangal, ⅛ oz fresh turmeric, 6 garlic cloves, 4 shallots and 1 tsp kaffir lime zest or leaves into a smooth, brick-red paste, adding a few spoonfuls of the soaking water if blending.

Step 2: Open the tins of 3 ¼ cups coconut milk and scoop the thick cream off the top into a bowl; you need about 6 tablespoons. The thinner milk goes in later.

Step 3: Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil and the coconut cream in a large heavy pan over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes, stirring, until it bubbles and the oil begins to separate.

Step 4: Add the paste and 1 tbsp mild curry powder and fry, stirring constantly, for 4–5 minutes, until the paste darkens, smells sweet and the oil turns red. Lower the heat if it catches.

Step 5: Add 2 ⅝ lb bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks and turn it in the paste for 3 minutes, until coated and the outside turns opaque.

Step 6: Pour in the remaining coconut milk and 1 ¼ cups water, add 3 tbsp fish sauce, 1 ½ tbsp palm sugar, ½ tsp salt and 4 kaffir lime leaves and bring to a gentle simmer. Don't let it boil hard or the coconut milk may split.

Step 7: Simmer, partly covered, for 15 minutes, stirring now and then.

Step 8: Add 1 ⅛ lb sweet potatoes and 1 onion and simmer for 10 minutes, until the sweet potato is starting to soften at the edges.

Step 9: Add 2 long Asian aubergines and 5 ½ oz long beans and simmer for 8–10 minutes more, until all the vegetables are tender, the sauce has thickened slightly and the chicken reaches 165°F in the thickest part with clear juices.

Step 10: Taste and adjust with more fish sauce or sugar; it should be rich, savoury and only mildly hot. Rest off the heat for 10 minutes.

Step 11: Ladle into bowls, scatter with 1 fresh red chilli if you like, and serve with 2 crusty baguettes torn into chunks for dipping. Chilled leftovers keep for 2 days; reheat until piping hot.