Khao poon with tofu and vegetables

Step 1: Drain 6 large dried red chillies and pound or blend them with 2 stalks lemongrass, ⅔ oz fresh galangal, 4 cloves garlic and 3 shallots into a thick red paste, adding a splash of the soaking water only if the blender needs it.

Step 2: Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry 10 ½ oz firm tofu for 8–10 minutes, turning, until golden and crisp on most sides. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 3: Spoon the thick cream off the top of ½ cup coconut milk into a large pot and bring it to a bubble over a medium heat. Add the chilli paste and fry, stirring, for 5–6 minutes, until it darkens, smells toasty and red oil pools on the surface.

Step 4: Pour in 3 ¾ cups vegetable stock and the rest of 1 ¼ cups coconut milk, add 4 makrut lime leaves and 7 oz bamboo shoots and simmer over a medium-low heat for 10 minutes. Season with 2 tbsp tamari, 1 tbsp palm sugar and ½ tsp salt; it should be hot, salty and rich, with a gentle sweetness. Common mistake: letting the soup boil hard after the coconut milk goes in; it splits and turns greasy. Keep it at a steady, gentle simmer.

Step 5: Add the fried tofu and simmer for 3 minutes, so it soaks up the broth.

Step 6: Cook 10 ½ oz thin rice noodles (khao poon or rice vermicelli) following the packet, usually 3–4 minutes, until soft. Drain, rinse under cold water and divide between bowls.

Step 7: Ladle the hot soup over the noodles and let everyone add 5 ½ oz white cabbage, 3 ½ oz beansprouts, 1 handful mint leaves, a squeeze of 1 lime and 1 tsp dried chilli flakes as they like.