Kaeng tai pla jay (southern vegetable curry)

Step 1: Pound 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 6 dried red chillies and 6 bird's eye chillies in a mortar, then add 2 stalks lemongrass, ⅓ oz galangal, 1 oz fresh turmeric, 1 tsp makrut lime zest, 3 shallots and 6 cloves garlic in turn, pounding each until it disappears. After 10 minutes you should have a thick, orange-yellow paste.

Step 2: Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a pot over a medium heat and fry the paste for 2 minutes, stirring, until the turmeric smells earthy and the colour deepens. Wear an apron: turmeric stains.

Step 3: Add 3 ¼ cups water and stir in 3 tbsp fermented soybean paste (tao jiao) or dark miso until dissolved. Bring to the boil and add 9 oz pumpkin. Simmer over a medium heat for 8 minutes until the pumpkin edges start to soften and cloud the broth.

Step 4: Add 5 ½ oz bamboo shoots, 4 Thai round aubergines, 3 ½ oz yardlong beans and 3 ½ oz fried tofu puffs and simmer for 8–10 minutes until the aubergine is soft and the pumpkin breaks when pressed.

Step 5: Stir in 2 tbsp roasted peanuts, 1 tbsp tamarind paste, 1 tsp palm sugar and 5 makrut lime leaves and simmer for 2 minutes. Taste: it should be salty, hot and only lightly sour. Adding coconut milk is a common mistake; this curry is meant to be thin and sharp.

Step 6: Serve hot with jasmine rice and a plate of raw cucumber, cabbage and long beans.