Jolpai achar

Step 1: Prepare the jar: wash jar and lid in hot soapy water, rinse well, then stand the jar upside down in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes (or boil jar and lid for 10 minutes and let them dry upside down). Let it cool completely; jar, lid, bowls and spoons must be bone dry, because a single drop of water is the usual reason a pickle goes mouldy.

Step 2: Wash the 1 ⅛ lb Indian olives (jolpai). Bring 4 ¼ cups water to the boil with 1 tsp ground turmeric and half the ¾ tsp salt, add the olives and simmer on a medium heat until soft enough to squash between your fingers, 10–12 minutes.

Step 3: Drain and spread out to cool and dry. Press each olive lightly with the flat of a knife or a pestle so it splits and loosens from the stone, leaving a few just scored.

Step 4: Dry-roast half the 1 tsp panch phoron in a pan over a medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Cool and grind.

Step 5: Heat 4 tbsp mustard oil in a heavy pan over a medium-high heat until it smokes lightly, then lower to medium. Add the remaining 1 tsp panch phoron and 4 dried red chillies and stir until crackling.

Step 6: Add the olives, the remaining ¾ tsp salt and 1 tsp red chilli powder and stir-fry for 3 minutes until glossy.

Step 7: Add 9 oz jaggery and ¾ cup water. Cook on a medium-low heat, stirring often, for 12–15 minutes, until the syrup thickens, turns shiny and clings to the olives. Stir in the ground panch phoron.

Step 8: Cool completely, then spoon into the dry jar. Keep a month in a cool cupboard in winter or 3 months in the fridge, with a dry spoon every time. Throw it away if mould appears, it fizzes or it smells fermented.