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Irumban puli achar

ഇരുമ്പൻ പുളി അച്ചാർ: salted bilimbi fruit simmered in gingelly oil with garlic, ginger, chilli and roasted methi

Almost every Kerala compound has an irumban puli tree, its trunk studded with clusters of small, cucumber-shaped green fruit so sour they make your eyes water. Through the monsoon months the tree fruits non-stop, and the surplus is salted and turned into this pickle. The bilimbi pieces soften into a tangy, juicy mass in a red masala of chilli, garlic and ginger cooked in gingelly oil, with roasted fenugreek giving a gentle bitterness. Eat it with kanji and payar (rice gruel and green gram), with a simple meal of rice, thoran and moru curry, or with chapati. The common mistake is cooking the fruit for too long: bilimbi is very watery and soft, and if stewed it breaks down to mush. Salt it first to draw out the water, then just warm it through in the masala for a couple of minutes. It is ready when the masala clings to the pieces and the oil glistens on top. Very acidic, but with fresh garlic and ginger, so store it in the fridge and use within a month. Abroad, use sour, green, unripe star fruit (its close relative) or green gooseberries. Chef's tip: dry the salted pieces in the sun for an afternoon for a firmer, chewier pickle.
Total time
40 min
Difficulty
medium
Serves
20
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Ingredients

Serves20

For the fruit

  • 1 ⅛ lb irumban puli (bilimbi)or sour green unripe star fruit, or green gooseberries
  • 1 ½ tbsp saltabout 25 g

For the masala

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Method

0/8 done
  1. Step 1: Prepare the jar: wash jar and lid in hot soapy water, rinse well, then stand the jar upside down in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes (or boil jar and lid for 10 minutes and let them dry upside down). Let it cool completely; jar, lid, bowls and spoons must be bone dry, because a single drop of water is the usual reason a pickle goes mouldy.

  2. Step 2: Wash the 1 ⅛ lb irumban puli (bilimbi), trim the ends and dry well. Cut into 1 cm rounds (halve long ones first).

    10 min
  3. Step 3: Toss with 1 ½ tbsp salt in a glass bowl and leave for at least 2 hours, or overnight in the fridge. Drain off the sour liquid that collects and pat the pieces dry.

    5 min
  4. Step 4: Heat 5 tbsp gingelly (sesame) oil in a heavy pan over a medium heat. Add 1 tsp mustard seeds; when it pops, add 12 garlic cloves, 1 oz fresh ginger, 4 green chillies and 2 sprig curry leaves and fry until the garlic is light gold, about 3 minutes.

    4 min
  5. Step 5: Lower the heat and stir in 3 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder, ¼ tsp ground turmeric, ½ tsp gluten-free asafoetida and ½ tsp fenugreek seeds for 30 seconds, until the oil turns red and smells toasty. Do not let the chilli darken.

    1 min
  6. Step 6: Add the bilimbi and stir gently on a low heat for 2–3 minutes, just until hot and coated. Add 2 tbsp white vinegar, bring just to a simmer and turn off the heat.

    3 min
  7. Step 7: Cool completely, then spoon into the dry jar, pressing down so the oil and juices cover the fruit.

  8. Step 8: Rest 1 day, then keep in the fridge for up to 1 month, using a clean dry spoon. Throw it away if mould appears, the lid bulges, it fizzes or smells off.

Nutrition per serving

Calories
45 kcal
Protein
0 g
Carbs
3 g
Fat
4 g
Fibre
1 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does irumban puli achar take?
About 40 minutes in total: 25 minutes to prepare and 15 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
20 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it vegan?
Yes. It has no meat, fish, dairy or eggs.
Is it gluten free?
Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
Is it very spicy?
It has some heat. Use less chilli for a milder version, or more if you like it hot.
Can I make it ahead?
Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
What can I use instead of mustard seeds?
Cumin seeds, same amount (different flavour, same crackle).
What can I use instead of garlic cloves?
½ tsp garlic paste or ⅛ tsp garlic powder per clove.

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