Gai tod Hat Yai

Step 1: Toast 1 tsp coriander seeds and 1 ½ tsp white peppercorns in a dry pan over a medium heat for 1 minute until fragrant, then grind them. Pound with 4 coriander roots and 6 cloves garlic to a paste, and stir in 2 tbsp fish sauce, ½ tsp salt and 1 tbsp sugar.

Step 2: Cut two slashes down to the bone in the thicker pieces of 2 ⅝ lb chicken pieces. Rub the marinade all over, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, ideally overnight; never leave it out on the counter. Wash your hands, board and knife.

Step 3: Fry the shallots first. Heat 6 ¼ cups vegetable oil in a deep, heavy pot (no more than a third full) to 300°F, add 8 shallots and fry for 6–8 minutes, stirring, until pale golden. Lift them out while they are still lighter than you want; a common mistake is waiting for brown, and they turn bitter as they keep colouring on the paper. They crisp up as they cool.

Step 4: Mix 2 ⅞ oz rice flour and 2 tbsp tapioca starch in a wide bowl. Lift the chicken from the marinade, let the excess drip off, and press each piece into the flour to coat thinly. Leave for 5 minutes so the coating turns slightly damp and clings.

Step 5: Heat the oil to 325°F. Fry the chicken in batches without crowding, turning now and then: 12–14 minutes for thighs and drumsticks, 8–10 minutes for wings, until golden and cooked to 165°F (165 °F) at the bone with clear juices. Drain on a rack.

Step 6: Raise the oil to 350°F and fry the pieces again for 1–2 minutes, until deep bronze and crackly. Drain on the rack for 5 minutes.

Step 7: Pile the chicken on a platter and scatter the shallots thickly over the top. Serve with 1 ⅓ lb cooked sticky rice and 6 tbsp sweet chilli sauce.